The berries start off as pale green but as they mature they turn to a deep burgundy red colour. When
pinkish they are excellent for cooking and when ....
Click here for the full in depth article.
Hinnonmaki Red (sometimes known as Hinno Red) gooseberry lacks an AGM
but is our favourite. It produces large red berries, and lots of them, which
are sweet enough to be eaten raw - really delicious. This is a strong grower
which has good resistance to disease. We recommend this one without hesitation
and it thrives even in cooler areas.
See also the comment at the end end of this article dated 13 March 2015.
We have negotiated a 10% discount on all fruit bushes and trees (including Hinnonmaki Red) sold by
Click here to go to their site and your discount will automatically be deducted at the
This variety is resistant to American
Gooseberry Mildew and that alone makes it a good candidate for one of the
best varieties. Combine this with the fact that Invicta is a very strong
bush which produces a large crop of fruit reliably each year and it is clear
why this variety is so popular.
Awarded an AGM (Award of Garden Merit) by the RHS.
This is an early season variety (early June) which is best used in
cooking. Our recommended online supplier (based on quality, price, reliability) is
Crocus, their informative page for growing and buying this variety of Gooseberry can be found here.
With all the attractive red berries the traditional green gooseberries are
sometimes forgotten and Leveller is a very good reason to consider them.
This variety is tops for flavour and the skins have very few hairs on them.
Excellent raw picked straight from the bush and also for cooking. This is a
mid season variety producing fruit from the end of June to mid July.
It has better disease resistance compared to most varieties and is well
suited to the UK. It does however need a well dug and reasonably fertile soil if
it is to crop reliably and well but it's well worth the effort. The berries are
large, about 10g each, and if you get the soil conditions correct it will
produce an impressive crop.
Pax was first released to the market in 1989 so it is a relative newcomer in
the gooseberry world. It is a cross between Whinham's Industry and another
unnamed variety. One of the key advantages of this variety is that it
produces almost no spines - a great advantage when picking the fruit.
Individual fruits are a deep red, of average size (7g per fruit) and ripen
mid season in early June. They are sweet enough to be eaten off the bush but
also cook well. You can expect a crop of about 1.75kg when the plant is
mature. Disease resistance is good, pruning to an open centre greatly aids
ventilation and reduces the chances of mould, mildew etc.
Whinham's Industry has been grown for many decades and it stands up to more
recent introductions extremely well. The red fruits are attractive and have
fewer "hairs" on the compared to many others making them easier to eat
straight from the bush. Individual berries are about 10g when ripe making
them on the large side of average. Excellent for eating straight from the
bush and also for cooking. The plants do have lots of thorns but they are
upright and strong growers.
Over the years this variety has proven itself to be exceptionally suited to
the UK climate - they grow well in partial shade and make light work of heavy
clay soils. Fruits are ripe in July making it a late cropper, useful for
extending the season. It's only weakness is to mildew, so prune well each year and keep the
centre of the plant open. Awarded an Award of Garden Merit (AGM) by the Royal
COMMENTS / QUESTIONS LEFT BY OUR READERS
|Date: 9 Augusy 2018
|COMMENT: I grew all of the Hinnonmakis this year along with Captivator. The green
was sour and bland, but many fruits, the yellow sweet, but not a lot of fruit, the red was prolific and sweet fruiting
early July with the other two slightly later. All attacked by sawfly regardless of bug spray; the Captivator was stripped
clean of foliage- the rest minor damage, but still managed a decent crop late July.
The H Yellow is a strong plant(I'll keep it for now as it has a unique growing pattern like a strawberry runner and roots
easily!) and like its red counterpart and Captivator is quite drought resistant to hot temps even 32oC at peak of heat
wave we've had. The Captivator plant I'd bought lacked vigor, so could be bad stock or diseased? I'll get a new plant later
to replace this. The H. Red & H Yellow appear not to be pH fussy and grow well in our poor soil. Zero mildew on all plants.
If you can live with the thorns the red one is a must for the home garden orchard.
|Date: 6 June 2018
|QUESTION: As a child 50 odd years ago we used to eat gooseberries straight from the bush
and they were very sweet. Usually red. I wonder which varieties I should choose to plant? I do not want to cook them
just eat raw.|
RESPONSE: I would go for Hinnomaki Red. It is both sweet and red.
|Date: 20 May 2018
|QUESTION: Hinnonmaki Red is generally accepted as the best variety of gooseberry
there is(and it is), why then doesn't it have the coveted RHS Award of Garden Merit? A rhetorical question.
RESPONSE: That may well
depend on when they last did a trial of gooseberries. A quick search on the
internet yielded no results.
Often people assume that RHS AGM is up to date but our research indicates
that often they can be 10 or even 20 years out of date. I don't know if this is
the case for gooseberries but it may well be.
|Date: 11 May 2018
|COMMENT: It is wrong to think that sawfly will only eat the leaves. In some
cultivars like Hinnonmaki Yellow not all its delicate small flowers open the same time and being tiny buds sawfly will
chomp happily on them as well as any open flower. I lost half of my potential crop to sawfly these past weeks despite
spraying. Like others have observed small snails can also target this cultivar. For some reason the leaves and flowers
of this gooseberry are very desirable to garden pests.|
|Date: 8 May 2018
|COMMENT: I often see those tiny Grove snails/brown lipped snails eating all and
sundry including flowers on my gooseberries and blackcurrants. They can cause quite a bit of devastation if left on a
plant. They hide at the end of canes under the leaves.|
|Date: 8 May 2018
|COMMENT: Hi, yes snails quite often do attack gooseberries after heavy rains.
Slugs Im not so sure. When snails munch the leaves they often take off the small flower heads, if they havent formed
a berry. Only solution to limit the chances of this is grow an upright variety as they attack the cultivars which are
smaller and closer to the ground. Also some plants get run off when flowers are aborted- unknown reason- and drop
off usually after wind or heavy rain so don't rule that out.|
|Date: 7 May 2018
|COMMENT: I had a great flower and what I thought was going to be an excellent
fruit set with my Hinno Yellow plant (not suited to a pot as it has a sprawling weeping aspect, so I planted it in the
border!) until today when I examined for sawfly as I have been doing daily for the last few weeks to see half my
flowers/tiny gooseberries were munched off not by sawfly, but by slugs/snails despite dosing the ground with pellets.
They must have done their damage before the pellets kill them. Very disheartening. I will try shale or gravel around the
plant to deter.
never heard of slugs / snails attacking gooseberry bushes. Has any one else any
experiences of this?
|Date: 6 May 2018
|COMMENT: After reading all the useful gardening info on this site it made me realize
that I've never actually pruned my Hinno Red in the 7 years its been in our garden since planting- lazy me!, but
amazingly it keeps producing about 5 pounds of gooseberries yearly, starting from the second year of planting.
This year it has set wonderfully again and is a big plant of a metre high by a metre and a high wide. The birds always leave it alone. No plant we've had has ever matched this fruit production in a relatively small sized plant.
|Date: 2 May 2018
|COMMENT: Re. Chill Hours
Highly complex subject, but not a major issue for gooseberry growers in the UK. There is a problem due to warmer
winters for growers of traditional blackcurrants which are very high chill(1500-2000 hours) and may not get enough
chill in Southern areas of England. For that reason new cultivars are being developed.
It all depends on the model used to measure chill e.g. temps of below 7.2 Celsius counting as 1 hour of chill. It is
better to think of it as vernalization when the plant needs temps of between 5 degrees and 10 degrees Celsius to
go dormant then get enough chill to achieve initiation of the flowering process after bud break in Spring.
It is a very inaccurate science and subject to many problems in determining accuracy. Gooseberries need a
minimum of 800 hours depending on the cultivar or maybe a 1000 hours or even 1200 hours. No general agreement
there! Generally the later flowering the cultivar the higher the chill need. Some specially developed gooseberry
cultivars like Glendale or Pixwell are said to need only 600 hours of chill as they fruit in Zones 9/10. Good resource
below to explain the science better. Hope that helps!
|Date: 30 April 2018
|QUESTION: We bought two established gooseberries for £16: Hinnonmaki Yellow and
a Captivator. Both are covered in tiny flowers, so that's a bonus, if we get some fruit this year.
What are these chilling hours plant nurseries talk of and how many do gooseberries actually need? First I've heard
of this term so I'm intrigued.
|ANSWER: I hope some other viewers
will chime in with more information. Chilling hours is the amount of time a
plant is exposed to cold (near freezing?) conditions. Some plants will only grow
well if they are exposed to a number of hours when the weather is cold. |
Plant A may require many days of cold to produce a crop in spring / summer but
plant B may only require a few days of cold weather to do the same. Exactly what
the biology is I'm not sure but that's how it is.
|Date: 29 April 2018
|COMMENT: A good tip for those who never see their fruit plants flowering is liberal
amounts of chicken pellet fertilizer in Spring and later potash or bone/fish blood meal throughout the flowering/fruiting
season. Gooseberries also prefer a slightly acid rich soil.
Contrary to popular belief gooseberry is not an easy plant to grow in the context that you can neglect and still
get a lot of fruit- not quite true! You must feed and prune. The result is very rewarding!
|Date: 26 April 2018
|COMMENT: After reading a lot of reviews about gooseberry Captivator I bought a
good sized plant for under a tenner last year and was surprised to see it has started to flower well on all its five long
shoots this year. I was expecting 3 years down the line as lots of people say it can be slow to flower and produce.
|Date: 22 April 2018
|COMMENT: This is a great site to read other gardeners experiences and learn a
few tips. Regarding suckering in gooseberries I have quite old established plantings of all 3 types of Hinnonmaki and
after 8 years I'm getting underground suckers off all of them sprouting up a few feet away either side of each plant. I
see it as a few free plants.
I did replenish the soil recently with chicken pellets and liberal doses of bone fish blood meal, so that could be
the reason they are all flowering profusely with small gooseberries forming.
I have a Jostaberry which after 5 years flowers erratically and gives low crops. I will replace it with something
|Date: 12 April 2018
|COMMENT: I'd like to add to your response to Alec's question on gooseberry
suckering, if I may? None of the modern types seem to sucker from underground roots; the popular Hinnonmaki's no
exception. However some do.
I was given 20 years ago a hybrid cross of Hinnonmaki Green with an older unknown type
perhaps wild. It suckers from the roots, flowers early, is very vigorous, has good mildew resistance, not bothered by
aphids or sawflies much and gives good yields of very large white yellow fruit which get big and explode, if left on the
bush ripening too long.
The gooseberry is indeed a fascinating plant to grow and incredibly adaptive to changing
climates unlike blackcurrants which apart from Jostaberry I never had any luck with- reversion, virus etc.
|Date: 6 April 2018
|COMMENT: I'd like to add my experience of growing gooseberries to this great site.
The best I've seen to date is Hinnonmaki Green. In fact any of the Hinnons are good for the garden. The reason I like
H.Green is it resists sawfly every year. H. red gets them now and again, and H. Yellow every season! The crop is good
giving large succulent sweet green/yellow goosegogs mid July and it has excellent disease resistance. It has really good
vigor, breaks buds much earlier than any gooseberry I grew.
Even now at time of writing I can see small flower buds
forming on its small leaves. This plant is not phased by frosts whatsoever. Responds well to pruning as it is very
upright and it suckers freely from the base so plenty of cuttings to take. They root easily. Watch out for its thorns
though-they are vicious. Thanks.
|Date: 29 March 2018
||From: T Warren
|COMMENT: An enjoyable review of Captivator gooseberry. My observations of it
were similar. I picked 1.6kg of fruit from one plant last year and it's an effortless plant to grow in the garden, plus
virtually thornless to boot and mildew resistant.
My wife's Hinnonmaki Yellow plant had a similar yield of about 1.5kg+. Its growth pattern reminds us of a strawberry
with runners, which is unlike the traditional single bare leg growth pattern of gooseberry perse. This spreading cultivar
can root easily when long vigorous shoots bury under the soil line. The fruit is really sweet, like a sweet grape, but
its thorns are razor sharp needles making pruning a bit of a chore, but still worth growing for its quality fruit. Also it
does resist mildew most years. Cheers!
|Date: 11 March 2018
|QUESTION: My question to ask the experts is when new shoots form this year on
an established gooseberry plant do they bear fruit on them the next year or is it 2 years later? Thanks for advice.
ANSWER: They bear fruit the next year, and also the year after. They will bear fruit for two years
or so after that but the amount of fruit will decline.
|Date: 12 January 2018
|COMMENT: After many years trying to determine why my lone planting of Hinnonmaki
Red was left undisturbed by sawfly or any other pests, yet all other plantings of this and other gooseberry
cultivars were attacked each year in different spots, I discovered by chance that it was because of a planting of
Artemisia abrotanum (Southernwood) planted next to the Hinno. All garden pests loathe its camphor smell I was
informed! I'm now going to propagate it all over the garden in springtime.
|Date: 09 December 2017
|QUESTION: I've just bought a bargain gooseberry plant and wondered does Hinnonmaki Red sucker underground and
ANSWER: No it doesn't Alec. If the tips of the lower stems are bent down to the ground they
will probably take root but that's as spreading as they go. The same goes for all varieties of
gooseberries as far as I am aware.
|Date: 21 June 2017
|Regarding gooseberry Captivator the key to success is the soil and patience as the site review states, if you
intend to grow it in a large container on the patio. A 15 or 20 litre terracota would suffice in most cases! If you can,
get hold of some moisture retentive soil. It will be a lot heavier than most and may appear as peat when damp but it isn't.
Your plant roots will grow slower in it, but in the long run it will make for a much stronger plant unlike a standard soil
which will become quickly root bound and stress the plant in hot weather. Any of the Hinnonmaki gooseberries will also
thrive in this soil type in a large tub etc, but not Invicta Malling as it is prone to root rot(from pathogens in soil
which build up) and dieback due to fungi from perhaps an open wound after pruning. These things effect Hinnon Red/Yellow
but extremely rarely. Captivator appears immune to all except rare leaf septoria spot which is nothing to worry about.
You need well drained soil for Invicta though!
|Date: 19 June 2017
|I had no success with Captivator. For me it had low vigor, was very difficult to strike a cutting and
eventually died out. In its place I bought a cheap gooseberry for Â£1.99 identified as Hinnonmaki Yellow (later I thought
this to be quite wrong!) by customer support I emailed on the label. It has horrible bad thorns worse I've seen in a
variety, is vigorous, breaks bud early in spring and very upright unlike the typical spreading habit Hinnonmaki
Yellow description gives of small berries too. My plant gives medium sized crops(1-2kg) of succulent huge yellow
green berries far bigger than any I grew before, averaging 15 grams and bigger. Perhaps its Leveller, I'm not sure?
I kept it for its fruit size and it rarely gets mildew. Also it strikes cuttings easily and is a great cat deterrent
which dig in my border at night. Great pies too!
|Date: 14 May 2017
|Lots of pleasing comments about Hinno Red. I will add a very relevant detail too. My gooseberry Leveller
succumbed to gooseberry vein banding(it is also the standard cultivar they use to detect it in labs). My Hinno Red and
Captivator both planted nearby showed zero symptoms symptoms of a yellow veined/chlorotic pattern, despite getting some
aphids too. Leveller was always plagued by lots of aphids and the yield was virtually zero in the end and sadly had to be
destroyed. All my cultivars were planted together for 5 years!
|Date: 10 May 2017
|***Gooseberry Spinefree is the female parent of gooseberry Captivator and gooseberry Clark is the male
parent in the original hybrid cross.
Realistically expect yields in the UK to be a good 3 to 5 pounds by the 4th year. I've have had mine for over 10 years.
Big yields only started in the 7th year. Beware of poorly sourced cheap gooseberry plants as sometimes cultivars get
mixed up. Thanks.
RESPONSE: Robert, if you read this, can you send me the source of your information about the parentage of
Captivator, it would be greatly appreciated? I can then update the main article regarding parentage.
UPDATE- thanks for the source, the main article has been updated.
|Date: 10 May 2017
|I visited the link given below. interesting stuff, thanks! I'm trying to find an old cultivar from my youth.
My uncle had an allotment for over 30 years before the council levelled all the rented allotments for new houses. On it grew
the most wonderful greenish/yellow gooseberry. The bush was at least 10 feet wide by 5 feet high and was jam packed every
year with tons of them. As kids, my sister and I used to pick bags full of them, some years over 20 pounds and my uncle
would freeze them for later use like jam and sauces for meals. I'd love to know the variety, very thorny, with slight
bristly large gooseberries? with which our aunt made some terrific tasting pies and was also delicious fresh with a
tangy sweet taste. Great wine too! Oh those days!
|Date: 10 May 2017
|I'm always surprised by the internet reports of differing plant reviews with some gooseberry cultivars
or how similar they are that is hard to determine, if it is just hype regarding yields or mildew resistance etc. I'd like
also to see this site's unbiased review of Hinnonmaki Yellow for other gardeners similar to the excellent Captivator
review, as the other site reviews of gooseberry cultivars are very relevant and good for the amateur gardener like me.
I can say the Hinno Red is true to its review here as is the Captivator one. Thank you.
|Date: 4 May 2017
|I'm not sure, if the link I write below will be okay to publish, but it is a very harmless one nonetheless
(non spam!) giving some excellent commercial reviews of gooseberry cultivars and recommendations. Info on Hinnonmaki Red is
the standout info!
|Date: 3 May 2017
|There's been a revival of sorts with gooseberry and I'm glad of a site which gives you cultivar
information and allows you to post your experiences. The only ones I grow are Lady Sun or some daft name bought by my
daughter (yield 1.5kg/early July, very sweet yellow fruit but aphids love the leaves) and Captivator (2.5kg yield mid July
fruiting very tasty/aromatic); both grown because they are semi thornless, so I have an extended picking season of a
month. Very comfortable gardening for me!
|Date: 29 April 2017
|I will add my praises to gooseberry Captivator. I was lucky enough to be given a cutting of it some years
ago by a horticultural friend from originally Canada who had told me that Captivator was originally introduced in Canada
over 70 years ago and was a hybrid of both American and European gooseberries(spinefree x Clark) selected in 1935 and
distributed 1949 with plant accession as they call it in 1952. Gooseberry Clark is a chance seedling of American and
European producing red fruit and Spinefree a wild gooseberry Ribes Oxyacanthoides.L
My Captivator plant is over 6 feet wide and as big, it can produce 2 to 4 kg in ideal conditions
after its establishment.
These yields only come when it has been established for 3 to 5 years. Great plant if you get the soil and conditions right
in your garden. Hardy to -40o Celsius and grows well in zones 2 to 9.
|Date: 26 April 2017
|I particularly liked this site's unbiased review of gooseberry Captivator and other cultivars that
I had my son buy me one. This plant is ideal for my garden. I had grown green cooking gooseberries, but since moving,
I lost the gardening bug a bit. But after trying my neighbour's deliciously tasting Hinnon Gold last year I thought why
not get a red thornless variety for desert! Don't want thorny types ever again. Thank you.
|Date: 8 April 2017
|Just checked my long neglected gooseberry Hinnonmaki Red and it is forming small gooseberries on its
flowers yet again. My other gooseberry cultivar plants were all replaced with this gem of a plant a long time ago!
|Date: 27 March 2017
|I've grown many cultivars of gooseberry over the years and one thing is true: there is a huge amount of
cultivar sub variability within them as with rubus blackberry concerning disease and fruiting patterns. I grew Hinnonmaki
Yellow delicious greenish yellow medium sized gooseberries, was given a cutting last year by an allotment friend of the
same original Finnish cultivar as he said I would be pleasantly surprised by it and I was: the gooseberries went a deeper
golden yellow when ripe, plus were much larger indeed over a season of three fruiting weeks in late july. No mildew or
sawfly as well were ever seen. I get 4kg a year off it each year.
|Date: 19 March 2017
|Excellent web page on gooseberry cultivars. It looks like most gardeners of all levels are growing the
Hinnonmaki types in favour of Leveller and older cultivars. I'm not surprised as the most commonly sold in most stores
are either these green or the red from Finland. I picked up the Hinnonmaki Green a week back to replace my older mildew
ravaged planting of Careless as the Green is said to have supreme mildew/disease resistance,yield, high goosegog
desert/culinary quality and being widely grown in Europe is confirmation of these facts. The Hinnonmaki Red is my
favourite of all for desert!
|Date: 13 March 2017
|Great review about gooseberry Captivator by the way. This plant gets so so or positive reviews.
Its fruit when ripe can drop early, it can take up to 3 years to bear even a single fruit as it appears to
be site/soil sensitive. Its yields have been widely reported as lowish 1kg per plant as far a field as
Australia to America, but in places like Poland it has been high yielding of over 2.5kg, juxtaposed with
Hinnonmaki Yellow which has shown very low yields of below a kilogram in some trials there, yet massive
yields elsewhere of 3kg plus. My point here is that there is so much variability with even named cultivars
trust your own experiences. I had a Hinnon Yellow plagued with mildew, bought a new plant from a different
supplier and never saw it once despite being planted in the same place as my previous stock which died out.
|Date: 4 March 2017
|Nearly Spring and my Hinnonmaki Gold is already budding well. My Hinnonmaki Red like every year is a
few weeks later when buds show any signs of growth, sort of looking a bit worse for wear really, but nonetheless
consistently fruits earlier than Hinno Yellow which fruit ripens 10 days later in late July. Planting chives near
gooseberry also deters sawfly pests I found over the years.
|Date: 19 February 2017
|My father used to be a commercial fruit grower. The commercial gooseberry cultivars most widely
grown in the States and UK/Europe are Invicta, Hinnonmaki Red and Yellow. All are excellent cultivars due to extreme
hardiness and mildew resistance (Hinnonmaki Red is virtually immune!) which all the older heritage English types
lack as in Leveller. Invicta is best used for culinary purposes, but the Hinnos for desert as well as culinary.
Hinnonmaki Green by commercial growers is not preferred due to its acidity levels though fairly sweet when ripe
and suitable for the home garden.
|Date: 13 February 2017
|I thought I'd weigh in a little here as I grow gooseberry Woodpecker(is it an English heritage one or
European?) and have the Hinnonmaki yellow too. This chill thing(accumulated hours of under 7 Celsius to allow the plant to
break bud dormancy) though needed is exaggerated with gooseberries compared to currants whose need is very high in most
cases 1200-1600 hours. My gooseberry Woodpecker is actually showing signs of breaking bud now and by my estimation we
have had barely 700 hours as yet of these required temps of under 7 degrees centigrade where I live, maybe less. Quite
often the Hinnonmaki Yellow breaks bud early too. I believe some gooseberries can get by with a lot less than estimated by
the so called experts. A month or so of harsh cold seems to be more than enough in the UK for gooseberry cultivars! The
problem is confounded by the inception time as nobody really knows when a plant actually starts to accrue these hours.
Blackberries pose similar issues for experts who estimate these hours! Hinno red is apparently lower chill need too.
|Date: 9 February 2017
|I've bought both Hinnonmaki Red and Hinnonmaki Yellow only yesterday and an experienced gardening fellow
at the nursery told me these Hinno types do not need as much winter chill as traditional gooseberry cultivars which are
always in the 800 to 1000 hour range. Hinno types especially Yellow can bread bud early in spring and reach their chill
requirement at even less than 800 hour minimum I was told. Makes sense now when these Hinno are very popular in hotter
regions of America as well as cold ones as they are grown successfully. Hinno Green does not seem available in U.S?
but is more popular in the U.k. I stuck with these two tried and tested types. My Captivator died out and hardly
produced in the 3 years I grew it.
|Date: 6 February 2017
|Very confusing when Hinnomaik Red is stated as synonymous with Lepaan Red, yet both plants in fruit
size are very different as stated above, plus Lepaan Red has fair mildew resistance according to NCGR
Corvallis Ribes collection and is synon with Hinno Red which is stated to be an erroneous name. Whom do you
believe as loads of catalogues/plant trials state Hinno Red is resistant? I believe RHS trials, reputed and
trusted. Hinno Yellow according to them is slightly mildew resistant. True, I've seen it on my plant every season,
but never on the red plant next to it. Both delicious berries. I also grow Woodpecker gooseberry which gives mega
huge delicious gooseberries(40g+) and is said to be mildew resistant, but it gets it bad every year in my garden.
Trust your own growing observations I say!
|Date: 01 February 2017
||From: Jim S
|Any of the Hinnonmaki group is a great plant and a must buy for the garden, if you value your
gooseberry, but I wish they would develop these gooseberry plants without those horrible, vicious thorns and
still be productive. The semi-thornless types like Captivator are very poor fruit producers and weak in vigor.
Hinno Green is my best producer along with the red type.
|Date: 28 January 2017
||From: Jane T
|Hinnonmaki Red is without a doubt the best home garden gooseberry ever. I'm very surprised that it
hasn't ever been awarded an AGM from the highly respected RHS group as yet? The thorns on Hinno Red are not too
bad compared to those of the Hinno Green/Yellow types. I am of the belief that it is not the same as Lepaan Red as
I grow both and true sourced to type. Lepaan Red has very small berries around 3 to 5 g, Hinnonmaki is much larger
around 5 to 8 grams in size giving yields of 8 pounds from an established bush. Hinnonmaki Red appears to be a
subspecies of Lepaan Red or subcultivar!
|Date: 25 January 2017
||From: Dave J
|Hinnonmaki red is supremely healthy and disease resistant. Hinnonmaki Yellow is quite susceptible to mildew,
RHS trials back this up. Hinnonmaki Green is equal to the red in terms of disease resistance, and is a heavier cropper
too than both red or yellow Hinno types. The yellow/gold has varying yields and is inconsistent, with spreading growth
and vicious thorns. Overrated in my book!
|Date: 13 March 2015
|I have just got myself Hinnonmaki red and green bare root plants(2 for £3 at BandM).
I under the impression these were very sour until I tried one from a guy at work late in the season
and was surprised to find it was very sweet, he ate them with a dollop of ice cream, so I thought I would give them a try.
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