JOIN OUR MONTHLY
(next early April)
Medlar Trees, Pears
Beetroot, Broad Beans
Cucumber - Ridge
Planting onion sets
Onions from seed
Runner Beans, Spinach
Swede , Sweetcorn
Swiss Chard, Tomatoes
IDENTIFY, PREVENT, TREAT TOMATO BLIGHT
Tomato Blight initially appears on the leaves of tomato plants but then goes on to affect the stems and the fruit. It is more of a problem with tomato plants grown outdoors compared to greenhouse plants. The disease is commonly called Late Blight.
It is caused by the same virus which causes potato blight and like it or not, the spores which cause it are present in almost every single allotment in the UK. It's not a matter of "are the spores there?", it's more a matter of "will they infect my tomato plants?".
There are two broad types of blight, late and early, with late blight being the main disease as far tomato plants are concerned. Distinguishing between early and late blight is a bit irrelevant for the amateur gardener, both will render your crop useless and there is no treatment when plants have been infected.
SYMPTOMS OF TOMATO BLIGHT
The likely symptoms are listed below in the order in which they normally occur:
- Small brown marks appear on the leaves which enlarge as the blight
- Leaves on the lower part of the plant may well have light coloured
patches of fungal infection on the undersides.
- Brown spots will then appear on the stems and branches, quickly
turning to deep brown black. These marks will expand and at this stage
the general health of the plants will begin to fail, the stems and
branches will begin to turn to mush and possibly collapse. It will be
clear that your tomato plants are suffering badly.
- Finally the fruits, both green and ripe, will show brown marks on them. The affected leaves will dry up, shrivel and fall off.
HOW TO TREAT TOMATO BLIGHT
If your tomato plants are suffering from tomato blight there is no cure, even farmers who have access to strong pesticides are helpless once the disease has hit. There are however measures you can take next year to greatly reduce the likelihood of the disease occurring again. Plants affected with blight in any form should be dug up and burnt, under no circumstances put them on the compost heap.
There are several things you can do to prevent tomato blight and these are listed below:
- Practice good hygiene throughout the entire growing
season. Remove decaying leaves from the plant and the surrounding soil.
- Practice crop
rotation every year. Tomatoes should never be grown in the
same soil two years running. Blight, especially, stays in the soil over
winter and will re-infect tomato plants grown in the same soil two years
- Burn all parts of infected plants, never put them
on the compost heap and do not dig them into the soil.
- Remove lower leaves and side stems so that none are
toughing the ground and preferably are at least 5cm / 2in above the
ground. This will go a long way to preventing infection which often
occurs when rain splashes on the soil and transfers soil to the lower
- Space plants correctly. This will allow good air
circulation to dry off leaves and stems and reduce the risk of fungal
infections. Follow seed packet instructions but as a general rule 45cm
to 60cm (18in to 24in) between plants should be sufficient.
- Water the soil and not the leaves. Damp conditions
amongst the foliage provides ideal conditions for tomato blight.
- Grow blight resistant tomatoes. There is currently only one tomato
variety which shows exceptional resistance to tomato blight, it's called Crimson Crush and was
first made available to the public in 2014 / 15. Read our full review of
Other varieties of tomato such as Ferline claim to have resistance to blight but in reality it is only minimal. At the moment, Crimson Crush is the only variety with significant resistance.
- Sprays for Tomato Blight. There are no effective
sprays or chemical treatments available to amateur gardeners in the UK
to treat tomato blight. Copper based sprays were believed to have helped
but these were withdrawn in 2014.
Many articles (online and in books) mention copper sprays (including Bordeaux Mixture) but they are simply out of date now.
LIFECYCLE OF TOMATO BLIGHT
It may help in preventing tomato blight if you understand the lifecycle of this disease.
Movement of the spores (called Phytophthora infestans) cause blight. Their movement and infection rate is highly dependant on a combination damp wet weather and specific temperatures. When it is damp and warm the danger of infection is high. The spores are released into the atmosphere from late spring to late summer and they travel on wind and / or rain drops.
It's very difficult for the amateur gardener to predict when danger periods occur however the website Fight Against Blight offers a blight prediction service which is well worth signing up to if you plan to spray your tomatoes (see below), It's run by the Potato Council but what works for potato blight also works for Tomato Blight. The service is free and you can receive email or text warnings for free.
SPRAYING TOMATOES TO PREVENT BLIGHT
The only treatment available to UK gardeners to assist in preventing tomato blight is copper fungicide. It's not a perfect solution but it can prevent or slow down the rate of infection significantly. From mid June onwards spray whenever wet and warm weather conditions threaten (use the Fight Against Blight website mentioned above to predict this).
Whenever there is a danger of tomato blight spray with a copper fungicide every seven days. You will need a spray gun, a manually operated one is fine. Spray the entire plant paying particular attention to the newly growing areas.
Other common pests and diseases which affect tomato leaves include: